Plenty Of Frogs: 2007

Around Kathmandu Valley

Balaju Water Garden-Situated five kilometres north-west of Kathmandu, Balaju Water Garden is an ideal place for rest and relaxation। The park features a long line of twenty-two water spouts, each of which were ornately carved with crocodile heads during the mid-eighteenth century. The garden also includes many other ponds, some of them containing large and small varieties of fish. Adjoining the garden is an olympic-sized swimming pool open to the public; Balaju Industrial Estate is located near by.

Swayambhu-Swayambhu is said to be two thousand years old, making it one of the world's oldest and most glorious Buddhist Chaityas। The Chaitya (Stupa) which forms the main structure, is composed of a solid hemisphere of brick and earth supporting a lofty conical spire capped by a pinnacle of copper gilt. Painted on the four-sided base of the spire are the all-seeing eyes of Lord Buddha. The temple is situated three kilometres west of Kathmandu city, and stands on the Valley. This hill is a mosaic of small Chaityas and pagoda temples.

Boudhanath-This colossal stupa, one of the biggest in the world, is situated eight kilometres east of the capital। Like Swayarnbhu, the stupa is inset on four sides with the all-seeing eyes of Lord Buddha gazing in each direction. Built on a huge octagonal base, the stupa is also inset with prayer wheels. It is common to see dozens of worshippers constantly perambulating the stupa while taking care to spin each of the sacred prayer wheels. Around the stupa are various smaller shrines and the houses of important Lamas (Buddhist priests). The stupa takes an added importance at all the Buddhist festivals when Buddhists come from all over the country to take part in the sacred rituals.

Gokarnaban-This lovely Royal Game Sanctuary, also known as Gokarna Safari Park, lies about ten kilometres north- west of Kathmandu. It is situated on the bank of the river Bagmati. Many wild animals such as the spotted deer, are found in the sanctuary and can be viewed from the elephant back. One can enter the game sanctuary on paying an entrance fee at the gate or by making arrangements with a travel agency. On the northern side of Gokarna, on the way to Sundarijal, there is a pagoda-style temple of Gokarneshwar Mahadeva. To its right, situated on a hillock, there is a small village known as Gokarnagaon. Accommodation is also available in Gokarna Safari Park.

Chabahil-On the road to Boudhanath is the lovely stupa of Chabahil that could be even older than Boudhanath itself। According to the tradition, it was built in the 3rd century B।C. by Charurnati, the daughter of the Indian Emperor Ashoka, after she married and settled in the Valley. There is also some ancient statuary about the stupa.

Sundarijal-Situated ten kilometres north-east of Kathmandu, Sundarijal is famous for its scenic beauty. There are magnificent waterfalls, cataracts and rock formations, making it an ideal place for a picnic. One has to walk a short distance after the motorable road ends.

Kirtipur-Kirtipur is a small town located eight kilometres south- west of Kathmandu on the top of a hill or plateau- shaped ridge। Tribhuvan University sits at the foot of the hill. This historic town has many things to offer including ancient shrines, temples, old houses, villagers typically dressed in old traditional costumes and people 1 weaving on hand looms.

Sankhu-Sankhu, located twelve kilometres east of Kathmandu, is a good example of a small Newari town, with many fine old buildings and temples। Beyond the village, up a long flight of stone steps, is Bajra Jogini, another historic temple with beautiful views of the Valley.

Chovar-Chovar is famous for its gorge, said to have been cut by the god Manjushree to drain the water out from the Kathmandu Valley which was at that time a lake. On the hilltop, there is small pagoda dedicated to Adinath. From this point one can see a superb view of snow clad mountain peaks. Chovar is located eight kilometres south-west of Ktm.

Pharping and Dakshinkali-Pharping has a shrine of Shesh Narayan which is richly endowed with history and art। The picturesque shrine stands on a hillock below which there are many fish ponds. The famous temple of Dakshinkaii is situated about two kilometres from Pharping. Every Tuesday and Saturday, pilgrims congregate at the temple to sacrifice the animals and worship the goddess Kali.

Budhanilkantha-Eight kilometres north of Kathmandu is a remarkable, colossal statue of the god Vishnu reclining on a bed of snakes. The 5th century statue lies in the middle of a small pond. Budhanilkantha is a place of pilgrimage for all Hindus and is the scene of great activity at such festivals as Haribodhini Ekadasi and Kartik Poornima. But the reigning King of Nepal may not visit the spot.

Godavari-This scenic village is situated ten kilometres south-east of Patan city। The road from Patan city runs to Godavari passing through the towns of Harisiddhi, Thaiba and Badegaon। One of Nepal's holy places, it is also a good picnic spot set amidst dense forest. The Royal Botanical Garden, a fish hatchery and a marble quarry are also located here.

Bajrabarahi-The ancient temple of Bajrabarahi is situated in a small woodland park located about ten kilometres south of Patan, near the village of Chapagaon। A visit to Tikabhairab and Lele from here is well worthwhile.

Phulchoki-Phulchoki is a 2,791 m। hill, and a good hiking spot as it offers a spectacular view of the whole Kathmandu Valley. Rhododendrons of different colours are found here including pure white and dark red varieties. A jeepable road leads to the top of the hill, where there is a Buddhist shrine.

Suryavinayak-Suryavinayak is the shrine of Ganesh, the elephant- headed god। The shrine has been positioned in such a way as to catch the first rays of the morning sun. Excellent views of Bhaktapur with snow peaks in the background can be seen from here. Being located in a thick forest, it is also a good picnic spot flanked bymany attractive landscapes.

Changu Narayan-Chanqu Narayan is situated at the end of a long ridge which runs well into the Valley। It is said to have been built by King Hari Dutta Varma in 323 A.D., the King also installed the goddess of Chinnamasta. The temple is richly decorated with suciptures and carvings and is said to be the oldest pagoda-style temple in the Valley. It is situated about 125 metres above the Valley floor and affords a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside.

Pashupatinath-This is the holiest of all the Shiva shrines in Nepal and is the abode of lord Pashupatinath, the guardian God of Nepal। The temple of Pashupatinath is a large double-roofed pagoda of gold-gilt and brass; the gateway are plated with silver. It stands on the western bank of the Bagrnati, about five kilometres north-east of Kathmandu and contains the sacred lingam of Pashupatinath. The whole place is a mosaic of other temples and shrines dominated by the big gilted figure of Nandi, the mount of Shiva; this is seated on a stone pedestal opposite the main gate, flanked by a golden trident. There is a crematorium outside the temple by the side of the wide but shallow river. On the occasion of the annual festival of Shivaratri (February/March), the temple is thronged by thousands of devotees, including a large number of pilgrims from India. The temple is also the site of a number of other different festivals and rituals taking place throughout the year.

Guheshwari-About a quarter kilometre beyond Pashupatinath temple, on the left bank of the river Bagmati, the temple of goddess Sati, Lord Shiva's consort, stands in the middle of a paved courtyard surrounded by rows of rest houses। This temple has the usual arched construction of tubular metal work covering the main building. Towards the top, it transforms itself into four gilded snakes which support the crowning piece of the roof. The whole structure of the temple is designed after the tantric yantra or geometric triangle, signifying the female principle of procreation.

Outside Kathmandu Valley

It would be a serious oversight for any traveller to Nepal to neglect visiting at least some of the fascinating and beautiful places of interest, most of them lying only a short distance away by plane and bus। Nagarkot, Dhulikhel and Kakani are only a short distance outside the Valley; the first two, in fact, offer excellent views of the Valley and its various landmarks. Situated in other parts of the country are Pokhara, Tansen, Lumbini, Janakpur, Gorkha and Daman. Also of major interest are Nepal's National Parks and Wildlife Reserves along with some other destinations best reached by trekking.

Nagarkot-Nagarkot, located 32 kilometres east of Kathmandu, is one of the most scenic spots in Bhaktapur district and is renowned for its spectacular sunrise when the weather is clear। Visitors often travel to Nagarkot from Katmandu to spend the night there so that they can then get up early and observe the breathtaking sunrise.Nagarkot has acquired the fame as one of the best spots to view Mount Everest as well as other snow- topped peaks of the Himalayan range in the eastern Nepal. It also offers an excellent view of the lndrawati river valley lying to the east.With an elevation of 2195 metres, Nagarkot also offers a panaromic view of the Valley and is generally described by visitors as a place whose beauty endures all year round with a harmonious blending of the changing scenery.Many visitors prefer to visit Nagarkot in the spring when the valleys and dales of the surrounding area break out in a rich kaleidoscope of differently coloured flowers. The flowers stand in stark beauty against the serene backdrop of the snow-covered mountains on the horizon.Ever popular among the tourists are the less-exacting treks and picnics which Nagarkot offers. Treksfrorn Nagarkot are unique and delightful. For anyone who may want to have an adventure without exerting much effort, a hike to Nagarkot's surrounding areas would be the best option. One can always traverse short distances on trekking trails and come close to nature's wonders such as the outer fringe of verdent forests, flower- covered Himalayan meadows and unusual rock formations.

Dhulikhel-Dhulikhel is a scenic and ancient town situated 30 kilometres east of Kathmandu of the Arniko Rajmarg (Kathmandu-Kodari Highway)। From here one has a panaromic view of the whole Himalayan range, from west to east. From the main town a short visit to Namobouddha, an old Buddhist monastery, is highly recommended. Panauti, a village noted for its numerous temples with magnificent woodcarvings, is a short distance from Dhulikhel.

Kakani-Kakani is another good location near Kathmandu for viewing the mountain scenery. From this location one can see the mountain landscape of the central and western Nepal, a vast collection of majestic peaks stretching from Ganesh Himal to the peaks of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Kakani is unique in the sense that there is an unusually perfect blending of the imposing mountain scenery with the more sylvan environment of the lower valley. Trees growing wild on the mountain slopes begin to bloom in late winter and stay in bloom for several months, giving the village even more charm.

Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur City, or Bhadgaon as the city is also known, is a museum of medieval art and architecture with many fine examples of sculpture, woodcarving and colossal pagoda consecrated to different gods and goddesses। The city is shaped like a conch shell, one of the emblems of the god Vishnu, and was founded by King Ananda Deva in 889 A.D. The altitude of the city is 1,402 metres above sea level. Pottery and weaving are its major traditional industries. The city lies fifteen kilometres to the east of Kathmandu, and is linked by a highway. Some of Bhaktapur's important sightseeing places are as follows:

Siddha Pokhari-This is a big rectangular water tank located near the main city gate। It was built during the reign of King Yakshya Malla in the early fifteenth century and is associated with a number of different myths। From this spot a wide range of snowy peaks are visible on clear days.

Durbar Square-Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a conglomeration of pagoda and shikhara-style temples grouped around a fifty-five window palace of brick and wood। The square is one of the most charming architectural showpieces of the Valley as it highlights the ancient arts of Nepal। The golden effigies of the kings perched on the top of stone monoliths, the guardian deities looking out from their sanctuaries, the wood carvings in every place - struts, lintels, uprights, tympanums, gateways and windows all seem to form a well-orchestrated symphony। The main items of interest in the Durbar Square are:

(अ) The Lion Gate-Dating as far back as 1696 A।D., this gate is guarded on either side by two huge statues of lions. Alongside there are two stone images of Bhairab (the dreadful aspect of Shiva) and ugrachandi (the consort of Shiva in her fearful manifestation).

(b) The Golden Gate-The Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly moulded specimen of its kind in the entire world। The door is surmounted by a figure of the goddess Kali and Garuda (mythical man-bird) and attended by two heavenly nymphs. It is also embellished with monsters and other mythical creatures of marvellous intricacy. In the words of Percy Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, the Golden Gate is 'the most lovely piece of art in the whole Kingdom; it is placed like a jewel, flashing innumerable facets in the handsome setting of its surroundings'. The gate was erected by King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance to the main courtyard of the palace of fifty-five windows.

(c) The Palace of Fifty-five Windows-This magnificent Palace was built during the reign of King Yaksha Malla in 1427 A।D., and was subsequently remodelled by King Bhupatindra Malla in the seventeenth century. Among the brick walls, with their gracious setting and sculptural design, is a balcony of fifty-five windows, considered to be a unique masterpiece of woodcarving.

(d) The Picture Gallery-The Picture Gallery is of considerable value which contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu and Buddhist Tantrism of various periods and descriptions। This gallery is open everyday except Tuesday.

(e) The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla-This statue showing King Bhupatindra Maila in the act of worship, can be seen placed on a column facing the palace। Of the square's many statues, this is considered to be the most magnificent.

(f) Batsala Temple-The stone temple of Batsala Devi depicts many intricate carvings; however, it is most famous for its bronze bell, known to local residents as 'the bell-of barking dogs', as when it is rung, all dogs in the vicinity begin barking and howling! The colossal bell was hung by King Ranjit Malla in 1737 A।D. and was used to sound the daily curfew. It is nowadays rung every morning when goddess Taleju is worshipped.

(g) The Pashupati Temple-This temple is a replica of the famous temple by the Bagmati river in Kathmandu and is widely noted for the erotic carvings on its struts. 11 was built by King Yakshya Malla.Nyatapola Temple-This five-storeyed pagoda was built by King Bhupatindra Malla in 1702 A।D। It stands on five terraces, on each of which squat a pair of figures: two famous wrestlers, two elephants, two lions, two griffins, and Baghini and Singhini - the tiger and the lion goddesses. Each pair of figures is considered ten times stronger than the ones immediately below, while the lowest pair, the two strong men Jaya Malla and Phatta Malla, were reputedly ten times stronger than any other men. This is one of the tallest pagoda-style temples in Kathmandu Valley and is famous for its massive structure and subtle workmanship.Just beside temple is a monastery (Math) with exquisitely carved peacock windows. These famous windows were also carved during the reign of King Vishwa Malla. The monastery is full of artistic facades of latticed windows and engraved columns.

Bhairab Nath Temple-This is another pagoda temple of lord Bhairab, the dreadful aspect of Shiva। It stands a short distance away from the temple of Nyatapola and was originally constructed by King Jagat Jyoti Malla on a modest scale. It was later remodelled by King Bhupatindra Malla, a zealous lover of the arts, into what it is now a three-storeyed temple.

Dattatraya Temple-The temple of Dattatraya is as old as the Palace of fifty-five windows. Consecrated by King Yakshya Malla in 1427 A.D., this temple, according to popular belief, was built out of the trunk of a single tree. It was subsequently repaired and renovated by King Vishwa Malla in 1458 A.D.There is much more to the Kathmandu Valley than its museum-like cities. All over the Valley, there are beautiful and interesting towns, each with its own history and legends, shrines and stupas. Most of these smaller towns and villages can be approached by car or bus while others require a good walk or cycle ride. There are also several scenic spots on the edge of the Valley that command dramatic views of the great Himalayan peaks. In fact, the Kathmandu Valley is ideal for a short visit and a mini trek.

Patan

The ancient name of Patan is Lalitpur, meaning city of beauty। It is indeed a city of beauty and grace and is planned on a circular format with Buddhist stupas at each of the four points of the compass। The city is three kilometres south-east of Kathrnandu across the southern bank of the river Bagmati। Like Kathmandu, its most photogenic centre of attraction is its Durbar Square complex, situated right in the middle of the market place। The city is full of Buddhist monuments and Hindu temples, with fine bronze gateways, guardian deities also and wonderful carvings। Noted for its craftsmen and metal workers, it is also known as the city of artists। The city is believed to have been built during the reign of Vira Deva in 299 A।D. Some of Patan's more important mounments are as follows:

Patan Durbar Square-This whole square is a cluster of fine pagoda temples and stone statues; it is at the same time the business hub of the city। At every step one comes across a piece of art or some images of various deities, testifying to the consummate skill of Patan's anonymous artists. The ancient palace of the Malla kings and the stone waterbaths associated with various legends and episodes of history are especially interesting to visitors. The stone temple of Lord Krishna and the Royal Bath (Tushahity) with its intricate stone and bronze carvings are two other masterpieces in the same vicinity.

Hiranya Varna Mahavibar-This three-storeyed golden pagoda of Lokeshwar (Lord Buddha) was built in the twelfth century A।D. by King Bhaskar Varma. Located in the courtyard of Kwabahal, this temple belongs to a class of its own. A golden image of Lord Buddha and a big prayer wheel can be seen on the pedestal of the upper part of the Vihar while intricate decorative patterns, worked out on its outer walls, add charm to the mellow richness of the shrine.

Kumbheshwar-This is a five-storeyed pagoda-style temple of Lord Shiva। Inside the courtyard is a natural spring having its source, it is said, in the famous glacial lake of Gosainkunda. This temple was built by King Jayasthiti Malla while the golden finial was added later in 1422 A.D. He also cleaned the pond near Kumbheshwar and installed various images of Narayan, Ganesh, Sitala, Basuki, Gauri, Kirtimukh and Agamadevata around the pond and in the courtyard. Ritual bathing takes place here every year on the day of Janai Poornima.

Jagat Narayan-The Jagat Narayan temple is a tall Shikhara-style temple consecrated to Lord Vishnu। The temple is built out of the red bricks on the bank of the Sagmati at Sankharnul and enshrines many stone images। The fine metal statue of Garuda placed on a stone monolith is quite eye-catching along with similarly placed images of Ganesh and Hanuman.

Krishna Temple-The temple of Lord Krishna holds a commanding position in Patan's palace complex। Though its style is not wholly native, it is reckoned to be one of the most perfect specimens of the Nepalese templecraft. The three-storeyed stone temple continues to elicit high praise from lovers of art and beauty. It was built by King Siddhi Narasingha Malla in the sixteenth century A.D. Most of the important scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana epics have been carved in bas-relief. The minute details of this relief work clearly show the high level that the art of stone carving had attained in the sixteenth century.

Mahaboudba-The temple of Mahaboudha is a masterpiece of brick and tile. Like the Krishna Mandir, it reveals an art tradition which evolved outside of Nepal; it also shows that the native craftsmanship of the Nepalese can do proper justice to any art form. This temple was built by Abhaya Raj, a priest of Patan and is sometimes referred to as the temple of a million Buddhas because every single brick depicts a small image of Buddha an astonishing total of nine thousand bricks. It was levelled to the ground in the great earthquake of 1933 but was rebuilt exactly to the original specifications, thus proving that templecraft is still one of the living arts of Nepal।

Rudra Varna Mahavihar-This is one of Patan's oldest Buddhist monasteries. Adjacent to the monastery there is a temple that contains a fine image of Lord Buddha. The courtyard of this temple is like a gallery of different bronze and stone art works.Popularly believed, though not scholastically endorsed, to have been built by Ashoka, the Buddhist Emperor of India, these stupas stand at four different corners of Patan giving the whole city a monastic character। All these Buddhist mounds were built in 250 A.D. at the time when Buddhism was making headway to the Kathmandu Valley.

Machchhendranath-The temple of Machchhendranath is another centre of attraction in Patan। The temple lies in the middle of a wide spacious quadrangle just at the outer rim of the market place. A fine clay image of Avalokiteshwar or red Machchhendranath is housed here for six months every year after which it is taken round the city of Patan in a colourful chariot festival beginning in April-May and lasting sometimes for several months, (see festival section).

The Tibetan Camp-An attraction of a different kind is the Tibetan Camp on the outskirts of Patan. The small Tibetan population living here has set up a number of shrines and stupas as well as several souvenir shops offering authentic Tibetan handicrafts such as prayer wheels of wood, ivory, silver or bronze, long temple horns made of beaten copper, belt buckles, miniature thunderbolts and jewellery. In this area, one can also see the Tibetans weaving carpets by hand.

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